Reloading for the M1 Garand

Should I or shouldn't I?

As for reloading... by all means, do it, as long as it is done
intelligently. If you really don't like reloading, handloading new
components can still save you mucho $$.

Reloading for Garand can be done safely, and anyone seeking competency
and shooting hundreds or thousands of rounds pretty much needs to do
(unless independently wealthy!).

Unfortunately, most reloading advice is geared to the ever-popular
bolt action. Some of the advice given is antithetical to what is
required for loading for a self-loader.

Here's what to keep in mind in loading for the M1:

1. Use a powder suitable for the pressure curve requirements of the M1,
for example, IMR4895 and IMR4064.

2. Use a bullet weight suitable for the pressure curve requirements of
the M1, for example 150, 162, 165, 168, 172 grains.

3. Use a CCI mil-spec primer. These use primer cups that are harder than
standard and help prevent slam-fires. Very important and often
overlooked. 

Avoid high primers, which cause slam-fires. Store ammo nose-down and
look across the case heads, that allows you to quickly inspect 50 or
more cartridges at once. Also run your fingertip over all primers as
they come out of the press or priming tool.

4. Sizing! This is where most M1 Garand reloading advice is
insufficient. Not neck-sizing is not enough. It also must not be
undersized! In other words, you NEED a shoulder height/headspace
comparator to measure where the shoulder is on your cartridge. I like
Stoney Point's, it is quicker than RCBS and cheaper. You also need to
have an idea of what the headspace is of your chamber. Measuring fired
brass is not enough. It stretches beyond chamber length sometimes due to
adhesion during extraction. Chambering empty cases of various shoulder
heights will help you determine your actual headspace. Cartridges must
be somewhat under chamber size for safe functioning (avoiding
slam-fires).

5. Retire brass earlier. If you measure the shoulder height growth
between unfired and fired brass, you'll see Garand brass goes through
more stretch and resizing compression than bolt action brass. Eventually
you'll get case head seperation if you insist on using your brass
forever. Retire after 1 or 2 reloads.

Use GI brass (the usual caveat about reducing loads versus commercial
brass applies) when possible, see: http://www.gibrass.com It is thicker
than commercial brass and less likely to seperate. Fortunately GI brass
is available new, unused and in quantity at good prices during the last
few years, due to a de-militarization program. This will never happen
again, once it is gone it is gone (the US military is not ever going
back to the .30-06 now and the current de-mil stock is getting into the 
mid-seventies when the last production ended.) Be sure and avoid high
primers as in rule #3.

6. The usual caveats about approaching max loads slowly, use a much
lower maximum than that for bolt action rifles, don't try to push
limits. The goals of reloading for M1 are accuracy, variety and cost,
not velocity. Trim cases, check that the neck mouth is not pinched in
the chamber throat (unlikely, but disastorous). Check body size so that
case entry into the chamber is not impeded by outsized case bodies (go
to a small base die if this is an issue).

As you can see, reloading for the M1 takes more time and thought than
for other rifles. With the right equipment and technique it can be done
safely and effectively. Ignore those who casually throw out statements
like "don't reload it's dangerous" and don't bother to explain. Some
might say they've seen reloads slam-fire. All reloading slam-fires can
be explained by ignoring rules 3 and 4 or single-loading. But guess
what... all self-loaders slam-fire about once per million anyway, even
if everything is done right. That's life in the self-loader lane. Wear
safety glasses. Don't single-load without a SLED, etc...

If you decide not to reload... be sure and give your brass to someone
who does! :) Knowledge is power, reloading or handloading is your
choice, whether you choose to do it should be based on information, not
just advice.

Ken.

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